50 Points for servicing residential oil equipment
This should take approximately 1.5 - 2 hours

1. Check the thermostats are level and have proper anticipator settings (if applicable)
2. Turn off power supply
3. Turn off oil supply
4. Check for obvious problems such as water leaks, duct leaks, oil leaks etc.
5. If hot water system with diaphram type expansion tanks - drop water pressure to "0" and check the air charge in the tank
6. Protect the floor from soot damage with floor covering of your choice
7. Gain access for cleaning of heat exchanger. Some units will have side access plates, swing open doors or another type of access. They may be hidden under the jacket.
8. Brush down all heating surfaces If the unit has baffles, remove, brush off, brush flue ways and re-install baffles.
9. Re-install clean-out access plates, close doors etc. These access areas must be sealed. Most will have gaskets. If not seal with proper sealing material  or new gaskets.
10. Carefully remove vent pipe  Caution - May be hot
11. Brush interior of vent pipe. Suggestion - have vacuum hose in one end of pipe to stop free particles from floating around while brushing.
12. Vacuum chimney base and top of boiler sections.
13. Reassemble vent pipe and if needed seal around smoke pipe at chimney base with proper material.
14. If equipment is supplied with a draft regulator it must be level and plumb when vent pipe is reinstalled. Draft regulator should be more than 18" from boiler  or furnace.
15. Check combustion chamber for debris. Clean if needed taking precaution not to damage the combustion chamber ( Note: Not all equipment will have combustion chambers, but this area still needs to be cleaned)
16. Change oil filter
17. Inspect/replace fuel pump strainer (always use a new gasket)
18. Blow oil line with Co2 cartridge if needed (Do not blow lines to underground tanks or tiger loops)
19. Remove, inspect and clean firing assembly, check porcelains for cracks and make any electrode adjustments. Check all head adjustments are to manufacturers spec's.
20. Replace nozzle with proper gph, spray angle and flame pattern per manufactures specifications *
21. Reinstall firing assembly (do not connect high pressure line at this time)
22. Double check everything is back to it's normal operating condition except the high pressure line
23. Remove thermostat wires from thermostat wire connections at boiler or furnace
24. Place jumpers on thermostat wire connections
25. Open oil supply and bleed all air from oil line, filter and fuel pump
26. Have a container on high pressure line to collect some fuel oil (This is done to protect filter on nozzle from contamination due to cleaning fuel system)
27. Change air filters if warm air furnace
28. Inspect/replace/adjust blower belt if applicable. Clean blower wheel blades if needed.
29. Turn on power supply and time burner safety shutdown. Burner should shutdown in the amount of time the primary control specifies on the rating label
30. Turn off power supply
31. Re-connect high pressure line
32. Connect pressure gauge and vacuum gauge **
33. Turn power supply on and reset primary control
34. Allow burner to run about 10-15 minutes
35. Compare pressure and vacuum readings to manufacturer specs.  Most manufacturers are operating at 140 psi or greater on new equipment. **
36. During this time, check all control settings for proper adjustment per manufactures spec.'s
37. Oil all motors where applicable. Newer equipment may have permanently sealed bearings
38. Locate the sampling hole in the vent pipe. This should be within 1 pipe diameter of the appliance and a minimum of 2 pipe diameters before the draft regulator.
39. All tests will be taken at this test point except a draft test which will be required to be taken over fire on negitive draft units and in the vent pipe or positive draft units. Today manufactures will normally supply this port in fire observation door. If older equipment you may be required to drill it in the observation port. You will be required to seal this hole for over fire readings when completed. Compare all test results with manufacturers spec.'s ***
40. Observe over fire draft reading is within manufacturer spec.'s. For negative draft boilers it is normally -. 02. When taking this reading, there should not be any air leaking around your sampling tube.
41. Perform a smoke spot test at the vent pipe test hole.
42. Perform a Co2 reading. Adjust to manufacturers spec's. Normally 10% to 12.5%
43. Perform a stack temp reading.
44. Check all safety controls for proper operation
45. Remove jumpers from thermostat connections
46. Reinstall thermostat wires
47. Check for oil leaks and that everything is reinstalled and sealed properly.
48. Remove floor covering carefully
49. Wipe down boiler jacket removing dust and dirty hand prints.
50. Complete all paper work and thank customer on way out

* Older equipment will normally operate at 100 psi. With many manufacturers operating with increased pump pressures 140 psi or greater the maximum firing rate on the rating plate may not be the actual nozzle size. See increased pump pressure and nozzle sizing charts from nozzle manufacturers
** Normally a vacuum test is only required if the lines are overhead or there is an underground fuel tank. Above ground tanks and basement tanks where the tank and appliance are on the same level, or, the tank is higher than the appliance, normally will not require a fuel pump vacuum test.
*** The over fire draft test will not be required on pressure fired equipment. Most residential equipment is natural vent and will operate on a negative draft. Some equipment today is operating in a positive drat condition. This would include direct vent equipment; not to be confused with power vented equipment.